Hospital Point Pioneer Medical Center (1899-1920). The hospital, above left, and the manager's house, above right, as they appeared in 1914. The hospital mostly served banana workers and their families.

Hospital Point on the western tip of Isla Solarte was the site of a medical center run by the United Fruit Company of Boston from 1899 until it was razed in 1920 in advance of a new hospital in Almirante, on the mainland. Today, locals know it a submerged 50-foot rock wall that makes for superb underwater exploration.

If you're scuba diving, expect to see moray eels peeking out from the rock wall, loads of glorious corals and plenty of colorful fish.

There's a small beach around the point, facing Isla Bastimentos, that makes for a lovely, secluded escape. The beach is shaded most of the time. Your boatman will know it.

There are poison dart frogs on the island, but don't seek them out. They hide under leaves when frightened. It's easy to inadvertantly crush one.

Although no larger than a thumb, the tiny hoppers release a toxin through their skin that is so powerful the Darien's indigenous peoples used to rub the tips of their blowgun darts against the amphibians.

When struck by a dart, the smidgen of toxin was enough to narcotize a monkey, causing it to fall out of its tree and into the arms of a hunter. Monkeys were hunted this way in the Darien as recently as 20 years ago.

(Guy enters a bar, says to the bartender, "Ever tasted a poison-dart frog?" Bartender says, "No, they're endangered!" Guy looks the bartender over and says, "Too bad, they're delicious. Taste just like Northern spotted owls!" If you're from the American Northwest, you're laughing now. If you're not, please accept my apology.)

Hospital Point is 10 minutes by boat from Bocastown. Starfleet Scuba on Calle 1 (tel/fax 507-757-9630, www.starfleetscuba.com), Bocas Water Sports on Calle 3 (tel 507-757-9541, www.bocaswatersports.com) and J&J Transparente Tours on Calle 3 (tel/fax 507-757-9915) can take you there. Expect to pay $50 for a two-tank dive (Starfleet and BWS only) and $20 if you're snorkeling; rates vary with party size.

Location

Western Shore

Isla Solarte

Bocas del Toro

Panama